Murray Mountains – How I approach Safety and Risk Mitigation in the Outdoors.

I take risk mitigation seriously; your safety and satisfaction, along with my safety, are the fundamental building blocks of any day we share in the outdoors. The following information is my way of making it clear to my clients how I manage risk and to encourage clear and open communication.

As much as I put systems in place and make professional decisions in the mountains, risks can never be removed entirely. In fact, it is the very presence of that risk which makes spending time out in the mountains so compelling, and why so many of us keep coming back time and again.  

With all of that in mind, please read the outline of my processes below, and I encourage you to get in touch with any questions you may have in the pre-booking stages.

The process of risk mitigation starts at the first point of contact. My website should give you some idea of what to expect from the range of activities that I offer, but it can only be a snapshot, and of course, I am trying to sell positive experiences. If you have any doubt, please do get in touch.

The Process:

Starting the conversation and how I mitigate risk:

HONEST APPRAISAL OF EXPERIENCE:

Getting a better understanding of your previous experience: For some of my activities, like a guided Munro walk in summer, there is less need for any previous experience of the hills, and your fitness levels and current medical conditions are probably far more important in helping me mitigate risk.

For larger and more serious undertakings, like a Cuillin Ridge Traverse, I must understand more about your previous experience and how up to date it is, as well as your current fitness level. This is to not only make sure I am selling you something appropriate, but it is my first line of defence in managing risk. Is this the right route/objective/course for you?

There is a wide range of activities or routes in between that will require me to have varying levels of information about your experience. For some, it will be their first step into scrambling, and it wouldn't be reasonable to expect you to have experience with scrambling if this is your first taste of it.

OPENESS ABOUT WHAT IS POSSIBLE:

I must be flexible in my approach to the mountains and the routes we can do. If a specific objective is discussed or sold, then I will also be open and honest about what may influence the likelihood of that happening. Such factors will include weather on the day along with how I assess your fitness and skill level when we meet.

KIT LISTS:

Providing you with a full kit list so you can be properly prepared for your day. Kit lists for our activities can be found on my website, and one will be sent to you depending on your activity choice, allowing you to ask questions.

BMC PARTICIPATION STATEMENT

I ask you to acknowledge my participation statement. This is the standard BMC statement involving mountain activities. This statement is generic about risk but it do urge you to read it and take on board the implications of accepting that statement.

MEDICAL CONDITIONS:

I ask you for any medical conditions or medicines you may be on. This is not so I can say no to activities, this is so we have a full picture from the outset and how it may play into your time with me and how best to manage any existing issues.

To give some context, I manage a long-term medical condition with my Type 1 Diabetes. This is a constant consideration of mine and the smooth management of it is integral to how I mitigate risk on the hill. I openly discuss my management of my blood glucose levels on the hill; so reciprocally, honesty about any conditions you manage is vital for all of us staying safe.

RATIOS:

For much of my technical climbing and mountaineering days out, I work at a maximum ratio of 1:2. The simple reason is that the more people on the rope, the harder it is to safeguard everyone and the slower the whole process becomes. It is also about enjoyment, and sharing a rope with several different people is not a particularly enjoyable experience. A lower ratio also allows me to be flexible with our objectives. There are some exceptions to this ratio, but they are route and customer dependent.

Managing risk on the day

Once we meet, this is our opportunity to do a final check on the equipment and clothing you have for the day and your preparedness. Along with sharing the current weather forecasts with you, and the possible implications they may have on your day, before finally committing to a plan.

This is also an opportunity for me to get some verbal and visual confirmation about what you have stated on your booking form regarding your experience, fitness and any medical conditions that may have been missed or occurred since the time of booking. Again, this is an opportunity to gather information and help me to manage risk and give you the best experience I can.

This is an ongoing process throughout the day, but more so at the beginning as I try to build a picture in my head about what the day will entail and how I may manage risk further along at potentially more technical sections.

Soloing, short roping or pitched climbing?

Techniques I use to safeguard myself and you during a day will vary from day to day and activity to activity. As an example, a guided walk on a Munro would be just that, a walk, with some briefing and instructions from me to manage safety. There are no big hazards, and anything there is can easily be avoided with simple instructions or a briefing. Guided multipitch climbing, on the other hand, could involve a mix of soloing, short roping and pitched climbing all in one day and differ from person to person from day to day.

Below is not an exhaustive list, but hopefully just a brief explanation of some of the ways professional guides/instructors safeguard people in their care.

Soloing on scrambling/mountaineering terrain:

Soloing is a great way to move through the mountains, as you have the greatest freedom to adjust your pace or even select your own route if possible. This is often a leading or guiding technique used on easier scrambling terrain or less exposed terrain, with probably lower consequences in the event of a fall.

That said, you are on your own, and it is very difficult to recover from a slip or a trip in the wrong place. I may be able to 'spot' short sections or talk you through the moves but can offer nothing more in terms of safety. I will use this strategy as part of an open dialogue with you.

Pitched Climbing:

At the opposite end of the spectrum is pitched climbing. This is where I will begin from an area of safety, with you attached to a belay and secured to the mountain. I will then climb to the next belay, placing runners as I go to maintain a safety margin.  

In this scenario, you and I are moving between fixed points, and the safety margins are much greater. This is probably the safest way to move through the mountains. If you were to fall, it is likely that the number of elements in the safety chain would do their job. Though again, risks cannot be completely removed, and there is still a chance that something like falling rock could be a hazard.

Short Roping:

This is where we have far more nuance and judgement in the safety chain. Short roping is a mix of techniques, ranging from walking together still roped up across easier and less exposed terrain, whilst moving between more complex sections.

Short roping does not guarantee 100% safety, and anyone who is going to be guided in this manner should be aware of that.

Belay options include hand over hand belaying, body belaying, shoulder belaying, direct belaying using the mountain in short pitches, moving together with a longer section of the rope using natural 'running anchors' to running out longer pitches, just like pitched climbing.

Which technique I chooses will depend on several factors, such as the difficulty of the terrain, the consequences of a slip, the likelihood of a slip, the current weather and conditions, the number of people on the rope, the weights of the people on the rope, the length of the route being tackled, the amount of rope out in the system and even sometime is dictated by the fact that there isn't a suitable anchor to use for a belay.

This is a series of complex decisions that happen in a very short period of time to aid progress along or up and down a route. Trying to give a full breakdown of the methodology is not something which can be easily summarised. It is highly nuanced and often misunderstood by many. However, for many scrambling/mountaineering routes in Scotland and across the world, this is a technique used extensively by mountain professionals.

It is an effective and widely recognised way to increase safety whilst travelling efficiently over greater distances of climbing or exposed terrain. We will always discuss the techniques that I will over the course of a day, to keep us as safe as possible and if you have questions or worries I will always refer back to my opening point: it all starts with clear communication from all parties involved.